You may already know that some of our favorite experiences on this trip have been when we’ve been able to do some sort of art or craft with the local people. I’ve woven a copper basket in Ecuador, carved an ebony figure with the Makonde tribe and crafted a recycled metal ladle in the Tanzanian mountains. Out in the back-country of Mongolia, I guess it shouldn’t be surprising that my lesson involved yak since they seem to show up in most every Mongolian experience.
Before the trek ever started I asked our wonderful leader, Jen, if there would be a chance to learn a local craft, like stirrup making or leather braiding. After a while I figured she’d forgotten, but not so! Two-thirds of the way through the trip, on a day that was not going well for me – Triple was taking off in a painful trot every chance he got (painful for me, not Triple) – it happened! We were resting a bit after the day’s riding when Jen hurried over to tell me they had a special activity planned for me. My luck was about to turn!
Amangul preparing to teach me to braid like a Khazak woman!
Hobbling over, I found Amungul sitting down with a bucket of water and a blanket full of yak hair. She invited me down and soon I was learning the process of braiding a rope from the hair of a yak! There’s a first time for everything, I tell ya! Our group being out-going and gregarious as they were, everyone joined in as soon as they saw me starting my lesson. Even Smokey Joe got in on the action…and I’m pretty sure he already knew how to braid, but it was fun having everyone taking part!
First you have to take the yak hair and separate the strands a bit, clean it as needed. Our hosts did much of this part for us. I tried it, but it was harder than it looked!
Separating the yak hair for braiding.
Amangul started showing me the process using her limited English and a lot of repeated demonstration. Anar, our translator, described the process and gave advice. The yak hair isn’t “braided” so much as it’s “rolled” and the tension in the fibers makes the yak hair twist into a rope. It’s that rope that is actually braided.
Jen, Lisa and most of the trekkers eagerly joined.
You probably don’t believe it, but she was juuust a bit faster than I was.
Amangul is perpetually enthusiastic and good humored – fine qualities for a teacher. I will tell you the rolling motion did NOT come naturally to me in any way, shape or form!
Trying to figure out the hand motions for getting the hair into the two strands to then braid. This is one of those things that is really hard until you figure it out and then muscle memory starts to kick in. I need a lot more practice, but could occasionally get it feeling smooth and right. See our wash bin? Water is used to give the hair a kind of “stickiness” that is hard to describe but is what keeps the hair in two distinct strands.
Whenever you are running short, you simply add in more yak hair at the bottom, add a little water to matte it together a bit and then keep rolling it into the strands and braids. That way you can make a rope as long or as short as you want. Well, as long as you have enough yak hair! Notice that my rope has both white and black in it? That’s because we ran out of black yak hair and just added white as we kept going. Worked for me!
Black hair, white hair, they all braid the same.
Anner put together a GREAT video showing the overall process. Plus you’ll get to hear the Mongolian winds blowing across the steppes – that’d be worth it right there!
After I created a long braid, we doubled it over giving me two already-braided strands in my hand. Amangul showed me how to now braid THOSE two pieces together to make the finished, four-strand braided rope!
Using a rolling motion, you twist the two already-braided strands into one, thicker finished rope.
The finished rope is REALLY strong!
We saw the rope used with the horses and, ironically, for hobbling the yaks. Ohhh, the ignominy!
Cute baby yaks…tied up with yak hair rope.
Happy teacher, happy student.
Amangul couldn’t resist – she took my finished rope and tied the ends together to make it into a headband. Do I look Mongolian now? Hmm…I think not.
A yak hair headband! Definitely a first for me!
And there you have it – my quick lesson in braiding yak hair. Not sure when I’ll have the chance to put my new skill to work, but if you have any excess yak hair lying around, just let me know!
If you missed them, here are our previous blogs on our Mongolia experience:
Part 1 – A Day in the Life of Two Mongolian Backcountry Badasses
Part 2 – Life with our Badass Mongolian Horses
Part 3 – The Nicest Badasses You’ll Ever Meet
I can hear your voice as I read this Aaron. Miss you guys!
I really like the combo of the black and the white hair in the rope. Very cool. I wonder if it’d work with Pedro hair. I always have lots of that.
If someone can braid a rope with human hair, I’m sure Pedro’s would work even better! Do I sense a new boy scout badge in the boys’ future?
Yes, I was sort of wondering where you expect to get yak hair when you return home so you can continue to practice. Though it wouldn’t totally surprise me to learn that some in Washington has yaks. By the way, I know now that you have been gone a long time. Yak babies are cute? Welllll….
As a matter of fact, there’s actually a yak farm out in Redmond! Might just have to pay them a visit…